05 June 2014

How to add a pouch and a hood to the Renfrew top

Hey everyone,
During my last round of Me-Made-May I have shown you a Renfrew top with a hood
and a pouch
and promised a tutorial how to add these. Here it is.

What you need:
  • The Renfrew pattern by Sewaholic, we will use view A (sleeves) and C (cowl)
  • A pattern for a hood, mine is from Jalie 2453 (oop), you can probably trace around the hood of an rtw hoodie as well
  • I made a size 8, and if I remember correctly used 1.5 meters. So, to include the bigger sizes, let’s say 2 meters of a stable knit with a bit of body, otherwise the hood would just collapse. I guess you could also use a light fusible interfacing to get a certain body.
  • 0.7 meters of a contrasting fabric for the lining of the hood and the back piece of the pouch
  • 1,2 m of elastic cord, a stopper and two grommets (optional)
  • And the usual stuff you need to sew a garment, like pattern tissue, scissors, marker, thread, a sewing machine, ….
Since you might be using a more stable knit with less stretch than the pattern calls for, keep this in mind when you choose your size. I should definitely have gone up a size. Mine turned out a tiny bit snug, but it’s still wearable.
You leave the back piece, the sleeve and the hembands just as they are. Let’s start with the pouch, shall we. We will need the front pattern for it, obviously.
The measurements I’m about to give are based on the size 8, for the other sizes you might try differently according to your liking, how wide you want the pouch to be.

I sliced up the front pattern 17 cm from the fold line and added seam allowance. 8,5 cm from the bottom I draw a rounded cut-out and added seam allowance. Mine are about 8 cm high and 3,5 cm deep. Next time I’d do them 2-3 cm higher, to make it easier to slide in and out. Additionally you need the back of the pouch. Mine is 11 x 34 cm plus seam allowance. I finished the pouch opening with a stripe of jersey the length of the rounded cut-out and 2 cm plus twice the seam allowance you have chosen in width. This pattern piece is not shown beneath.

By slicing up the entire front you will end up with straight lines on a curved body, in black it does not show that much but it might be more obvious on other colors. If you don’t like these seams across your chest and still want the pouch, slice up the front pattern twice, like this, see, no more lines in the upper part. Everything else stays the same.

Cut the middle front on the fold and two of the side pieces from the main fabric and the back of the pouch and the two stripes from the contrasting jersey and assemble the front.

Finish the rounded cut-out with the stripe of jersey. Fold the stripe in half (right side on the outside) and pin on the right side of the opening with all three raw edges lining up (principle like here, just omit the closing of the stripe) and sew. Clip the seam allowance and fold over the stripe to the wrong side of the fabric, pin in place and sew. There will be some tension on this seam, so it might be better to use a narrow zig-zag or another stretchy stitch here, or at least lower the thread tension a bit, if you are using a straight stitch (that’s what I did).
On the wrong and right side of the fabric draw a line where the back of the pouch should be placed, keeping your chosen seam allowance in mind. I used a 0,7 cm seam allowance for the pouch piece, so mine started about 2,2 cm above/beneath the opening. Line up the pouch back piece and pin in place. I sewed this with the right side up for a nicer finish. So I re-pinned everything on the right side of the fabric and removed the first line pinned. To secure the pouch piece I used a stitch with a width of 7 mm to give it some strength and to enclose the raw edge of the back piece. My machine has a flatlock-stitch I used, but you can also use a different stitch with some width here like a  zig-zag or use a twin needle and a straight stitch. It’s up to you.
Next pin the side pieces to the middle one and sew. VoilĂ , your front piece is ready. You can see the details on the picture below.

Let’s move on to the hood.
For the pattern piece I used the cowl pattern piece from the Renfrew top and the hood pattern and lined up the back of both pieces above the two notches of the cowl pattern. Because the cowl will not drape down in front I started in the middle of the cowl pattern to grade to the hood, traced around the entire hood and the rest of the cowl. That’s it.
This pattern will give you a wide hood that will fall down to your eyes, what I totally intended, inspired by this guy’s green one;-)
Usually the Cowl pattern is cut on the fold. I added a front seam (and allowance) to save fabric.

You will need two hood pieces from your outer fabric and two from the lining fabric. First sew the back and front seams on the inner and outer hood. If you like a elastic or some other cording in you hood, now is the tine to insert the grommets at the edge of the outer hood close to the front seam. Alternatively you can sew two small button holes. Where to put them depends on the size you grommets, diameter of the cord etc. You will figure that out.
Next, with right sides facing each other sew the two hoods together at the front opening. Turn the right side out and sew around the front opening about 2,5 cm (depending on the size of your grommets, etc!!!)  from the edge to create a casing for the cord. Insert the elastic and the stopper and you are done. Details shown below (and the fact that I'm living with a cat).
After this you can follow the Sewaholic instructions.
If you have questions or actually made a shirt following this tutorial, let me know in the comment section of this post.
Have fun making a hooded Renfrew and thanks for stopping by,

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